Finalizing the New Starter Installation

This is the 2 AWG positive battery wire cable that needed to be installed on the new starter…this was easier said than done as almost every disconnect conducted to install the starter last week had to be repeated to access the battery cable stud on the starter.
Here is the Runner at 1100am ready for the cable install. After jacking up
the car, disconnecting the tailpipe from the header collector, yanking the motor mount bolts, jacking up the engine, and moving the header I could finally squeeze my hand between the engine block and starter to connect the cable.
Look closely and you will see the engine lifted about one inch off the motor mount on the K-member…just enough room for my hand, the cable, and the cable nut.
Next, the cylinder head and header flange gasket surfaces were scraped clean and the Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal exhaust gasket was installed.
This is the final cable setup on the tiny little Denso starter. It sure has very tight clearance to the block – I hope it doesn’t burn up from the engine block or header heat at normal operating temperatures. I needed to splice the new battery cable to the old starter relay cable at the positive battery post. I used a Weller solder gun and rosin core solder but it made a mess of things. I was disappointed with the results because I could not obtain an even distribution of solder throughout the 8 AWG wire. If you have thoughts or know techniques for soldering heavy gauge wire together PLEASE POST THEM HERE as I will conduct a “do over” on the solder job if I find a better method. I used corrugated black plastic tubing to cover the new and old cables / wires together to add good looks as a final touch.
Since the drivers’ side spark plugs had been pulled last week in order to remove the exhaust header I decided to put in the fresh set of Champion plugs on BOTH sides of the engine. Although it was already 730pm I decided this was a necessary step and worth the extra time investment. The old Autolite plugs had been in the engine since 4 years ago and last week went through the wringer during the moth ball startup with raw gases and burning oil. Finally, I put in a couple of rounds on the front torsion bars to help the old Runner regain some of its youthful stance (raises the front end so it doesn’t look like it is sagging over the tires) before dropping everything off the jack.
By 830pm everything was buttoned up and ready for a test run. I turned on the electric pump for a few, pumped twice to empty the Holly carb squirters into the throat of the Edelbrock CH4B dual plane intake manifold, turned the ignition key, and VOILA the beast came to life! This car never started so easy. I could hear the rpm difference between this new hi-torque starter and the old OE version…it is amazing! I found myself stopping and starting the engine just so I could hear this new starter sound.
It is so weird listening to this new pitch as everyone with an old Chrysler product including myself has learned to love the distinctive sound of the old starter. In fact, speaking of the old OE starter Richard Enrenberg of Mopar Action magazine once wrote “The 1962 Chrysler design broke new ground by developing the first starter, anywhere, using a cast-aluminum housing and double gear reduction. The armature spun at much higher RPM than the norm; this feature, combined with the extra helical gearset, served to create the now-famous waaa-waaa-waaa sound that told you, from a block away, it was a Mopar cranking. The solenoid shift assembly and contact setup were designed and built right into the starter, no more bolt-on “piggyback” solenoid. This starter was a giant techno-leap forward, and would be used in production until the late 1980s”. I’ve known this old noise for 33 years
Back to reality, I left this resurrection project last weekend needing to finish the radiator flush.
Too tired tonight for such antics so I’ll leave it for tomorrow or next weekend. Cranking up the Runner once again I backed it out of the garage, straightened it up, and pulled it back into its garage parking spot for the night. Starter mission accomplished!

2 comments

  1. Larry says:

    Soldering Tip: You need surface area and heat.
    The object is to heat the metal wire inside and out (not just the surface). The rule of thumb is this should be able to be accomplished in less than 10 seconds (prefer 6-8).

    The small 300w Weller Gun is not enough heat to keep the 8AWG at temp quick enough and the tip is too small. A large 950W Wand with at least a 3/8 inch solid flat tip. Also use 60/40 solder and wick the 8AWG with paste.

  2. timw says:

    Great..thanks! Where do i get a 950W Wand? Is that a brand name or ?? Do I check Northern Tool or similar?

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: